to the pier and having to look
very
quickly at whether there are waves. The main thing that usually jumps
out at you Is not the wave quality but how many people are in. Today
the answer was … A lot, in fact it was the 2nd most
I’ve ever seen (after 1st December 07). So we were pumped.
After about 10 minutes of Andy getting suited up and me
having a small incident with the parking meter in which a
very nice Indian family had to help me get my change out as
I’d jammed it, Perhaps with excitement who knows! We were
ready and headed down to the beach . I believe my exact words were
“0-1 foot my right bollock”. It was pumping, 2-3 ft
and 4 or maybe even 5 in sets. I quickly decided the pier was the best
place to be and after waiting in a queue to pay the man in the box
(never happens in the winter) I was shooting to my hearts content. I
soon realised that I had my work cut out if I wanted to shoot everyone,
there were two main breaks and a lot of very good people at both. The
one breaking out the back towards the end of the pier and the more
shorey one. I had to keep Andy in my sights as I was after all there to
shoot him and he was sitting deep , but there were also some
particularly sick short boarders closer to the beach. The waves were
dropping pretty quickly so a bit later on I decided to move off the
pier and onto the beach, the waves were a lot smaller but the quality
of surfing and sponging was really high. James, something on his long
board pulling some lovely hang fives, some sick sponger pulling so
barrels rolls and Terry Crump on his tiny little fish, pulling sick
turns on the tiniest sections and even grabbing a bit of air.
Was all in all a really fun session and I really feel like I
learned something never trust the Eyeball surf reports!
| Home Gallery News + Coming Soon Videos Guestbook Contact Me |